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Hot beverages from a Spanish cookbook

Source: Spanish Colonial Recipes #620

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Translation by John E. Worth from:
Arte de Repostería, en que se contiene todo genero de hacer dulces secos, y en liquido, vizcochos, turrones, y natas: bebidas heladas de todos generos, rosolis, mistelas, &c. con una breve instruccion para conocer las frutas, y servirlas crudas, y diez mesas, con su explicación, by Juan de la Mata (Madrid: Imprenta y Librería de Joseph García Lanza, 1755).

Of Tea, Coffee, and Chocolate

Of Tea
Tea is an herb that comes from China, or other parts of Asia, particularly from Japan, which is the most esteemed for its natural goodness. This is distinguished from the other by its pallid green color, slightly discolored; the other has the color, although green, more dark and intense. One should select, if possible, that which has the smallest and most delicate leaves, and a color of a clear greenish yellow. Its flavor is somewhat bitter; its odor, although
milder, of ambergris or violet.

It is prepared by placing some tea leaves in a pie pan [tortera], and half an azumbre [about one liter or quart] of boiling water are poured over them, leaving them to steep for the space of a little less than half a quarter of an hour [about 7 minutes], with which it is distributed to serve it in the cups, or xicaras [chocolate cups], adding to it in order to mitigate its natural bitter flavor sugar in power, or in little pieces (and the best is that from Holland) as is judged suitable. If it is recognized that it has given too much flavor to the water, on the next occasion the dose should be moderated.

The Japanese commonly use powdered tea in order to prepare it with water, and in this manner it can be prepared with a much smaller portion.

Instead of common sugar, some make use of rock sugar, and they also make use of milk, pouring as much of this as the water in the tea at the time of drinking it.

The properties of tea are to dispel the vapors of the brain, and refresh the brain. It is normally consumed in the morning in order to comfort the spirits, and at midday after having eaten, so that it aids in digestion.

Of Coffee

Coffee is a species of grain that comes from Persia, and other countries in the Levant, similar or little different from our broad beans or kidney beans. That which leans to a light yellow color has preference over the white one, but the best of all is the light brown color, dark, or grey. One selects the most clean, fresh, and small ones, and in order to make use of them
they are toasted in a casserole, pan, or casserole dish over a charcoal fire, without flame, so that the heat penetrates equally throughout. In order to know when it is done, one deduces by the color it has received, which will be a tawny light brown, and then placed on a napkin, it will soak up the oil, which naturally dissipates. Lastly it is placed in a grinder, which is not explained, since it is well known. In order to grind the coffee in the absence of a grinder, a
mortar will suffice, passing it afterward through a sieve. It should be noted that it is not useful to prepare a large quantity of coffee, but rather only that which is needed, and in order to store it once it is already powdered, it is placed in a box.

Its use as a beverage is by boiling half an azumbre [about one liter or quart] of water in a coffee pot of silver, copper, or pottery. After having given it a pair of boilings, one adds three spoonfuls of ground coffee, which comprises a quantity of about two ounces, and mixed well with the water, it should be given a dozen very light boilings, so that it does not boil over, with which it should be removed from the fire and let repose. If one is in a hurry, a small spoonful of cold water can be added so that the dregs settle more quickly. After having reposed, it should be poured in cups, each one adding granulated sugar to taste. Milk can also be used, adding it to the coffee at the time of drinking it.

Coffee dissipates and destroys the vapors of wine, helps digestion, comforts the spirits, and impedes sleep with excess consumption.

Of Chocolate

Nobody is ignorant of the composition of chocolate, which is a solid paste, composed of cacao (the variety of types of which is very well-known, among which that from Caracas enjoys superior preeminence), of sugar, and cinnamon. The dose of each one is, for example, for eight pounds of sugar the same amount of cacao, and one ounce of cinnamon. Since the ordinary manner of making it is so common, we will omit it as unnecessary since it is known. If one should wish to make it more delicious, upon forming the paste one may add a few drops of orange blossom water, or vanilla, well-rinsed and passed through a sieve. Nevertheless, although it has the characteristic of having a better taste and odor, it neither lasts as long nor is as healthy, on account of which it should be
avoided as harmful, because of the vanilla being  comprised of supremely hot qualities, and it serves no other function than to introduce into the body burning inflammations. One may make use of the orange blossom water, which does not have these defects, in suitable portions; nevertheless, the wise and prudent man, spurning effeminate delights that only serve to destroy the constitution, consumes chocolate with only the composition of sugar,
cinnamon, and cacao, without permitting any other circumstance, since in this manner, in addition to being perfect, has the quality of being healthful. Foreigners are not ignorant of this virtue, for which reason, in particular the French, they call it chocolat de sante, which is the same to say in our common tongue, chocolate of health.

The manner of making it in a chocolate pot is also omitted, because there is no place, or house, even the most rustic villager, that does not know it.

Many make use of an extraordinary way of making chocolate, which is exchanging cold milk for the water, and when it is boiling in the chocolate pot, they add the finely grated chocolate (which must also be done with the water), and having brought it to boil once, it is removed from the fire. The milk tempers the hot qualities of the chocolate.

It is very useful, made with the suitable purity, to comfort the stomach and chest; it maintains and re-establishes the natural heat; feeds, dissipates, and destroys the malignant humors; fortifies and sustains the voice.

If there is no way to make the chocolate comfortably, as occurs many times to travelers, in order not to miss this healthy benefit, one may eat the chocolate paste in the quantity of one ounce, or an ounce and a half, more or less, according to the regular custom that one has, drinking afterward a glass of water. Nevertheless, this should not be done many times, because it can cause constipation. Chocolate should be stored in dry place, and wrapped in paper.