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Content Enable editor Use plain text Code entry Specs on the board: Starboard Hypernut 8'0" x 31.5" x 4.1" x 133l Scott McKercher, Svein Rasmussen and Mathieu Rauzier SS16HYW803115110030 INNOVATION QUALITY BIAXIAL WOOD TECHNOLOGY Conversation with ChatGPT: Skip to content Chat history You said: I have a stand-up paddleboard with these markings:Starboard Hypernut SUP 8'0" x 31.5" x 4.1" x 133l signed by Scott McKercher, Svein Rasmussen and Mathieu Rauzier s ChatGPT said: You’ve got a collector’s gem of a board. Here's what those markings mean: Model: Starboard Hypernut SUP – A compact, high-performance stand-up paddleboard known for stability and maneuverability, especially in surf. Dimensions: 8'0" length – Short for a SUP, emphasizing surf performance. 31.5" width – Wide for stability. 4.1" thick – Fairly thin for an 8’ board, keeps the volume and responsiveness balanced. 133 liters – Volume; suitable for intermediate to advanced riders, and light paddlers with beginner experience. Autographs: Scott McKercher – Former wave world champion and a key shaper/designer at Starboard. If he signed it, that board likely carries some pedigree or was part of a special release. Svein Rasmussen – Founder and CEO of Starboard, and a former Olympic windsurfer. His signature points to this being a showcase or prototype board. Mathieu Rauzier – Starboard’s lead designer and the mastermind behind a lot of their innovations. If his name’s on it, the board may have a unique or first-edition design element. What You May Have: This board is possibly: A limited edition, prototype, or demo team board. A personal board from a trade show, test day, or ambassador gift. Something with resale and collector value, especially to hardcore Starboard fans or SUP historians. What You Can Do With It: If you use it: It’s a fantastic surf SUP—agile and stable. If you display it: It's a conversation piece and potential asset. If you sell it: Get it appraised in surf forums or collector groups, especially on platforms like Seabreeze, StandupZone, or Facebook SUP Buy/Sell groups. Let me know if you want help verifying the year or checking if it was part of a special release. You said: SS16HYW803115110030 INNOVATION QUALITY BIAXIAL WOOD TECHNOLOGY ChatGPT said: That string of letters and numbers—SS16HYW803115110030—is the Starboard serial number, and it tells us quite a bit about your board: 🔍 Serial Number Breakdown: SS16HYW803115110030 Let’s decode it: SS16 → Likely means Starboard Season 2016 (i.e. model year 2016). HY → Refers to Hypernut. W → Likely indicates Wood construction. 803115 → Probably a mash-up of the dimensions: 8'0" (length) 31.5" (width) 110030 → Internal factory/production number (batch + board #30, possibly) So this is a 2016 Starboard Hypernut 8’0 x 31.5”, in Wood Technology construction, possibly the 30th off the line in its batch. 🪵 BIAXIAL WOOD TECHNOLOGY: That’s one of Starboard’s mid-to-high-end construction technologies in 2016: Biaxial Glass Fiber layered over Full wood sandwich deck Known for a good balance of durability, stiffness, and light weight Great for wave performance—less flex than carbon, but way more affordable It’s not the cheapest construction, but not full carbon elite either. In 2016, this was a premium surf-SUP build, often priced between $1,600–$1,900 USD. 💡 Bottom Line: You’ve got a 2016 Starboard Hypernut 8’0" Biaxial Wood Technology, and it’s signed by three major figures at the company—potentially a showroom or demo highlight board. Let me know if you want help listing it, appraising it, or finding its original catalog entry. You said: I cracked the tip of the board. How can I repair it? ChatGPT said: Cracking the nose of a SUP sucks—but it’s totally repairable if you act quickly and correctly. Since your board is a Starboard Biaxial Wood construction, you’re dealing with a sandwich composite (fiberglass + wood + foam). Here's how to repair it without compromising integrity or aesthetics. 🚨 Step 1: Assess the Damage Is it just the fiberglass skin? ✅ = Easier fix Is the foam exposed or waterlogged? ❌ = Dry it out first Is the wood layer delaminating? 🔧 = Needs a stronger patch If the crack went through to the foam core and you've used it since, assume there's some water intrusion. ⏳ Step 2: Dry the Board (if water got in) Tilt the board nose down in a warm, dry place. Leave the crack open and exposed to air for at least 48 hours—use a fan or sunlight, but avoid overheating. Optional: Insert paper towels or uncooked rice near the crack to absorb moisture. 🛠️ Step 3: Prepare for the Repair Supplies you'll need: Sandpaper (80-grit and 150–220 grit) Epoxy resin + hardener (NOT polyester resin—it melts EPS foam!) Fiberglass cloth (4oz to 6oz is fine) Painter’s tape Acetone or isopropyl alcohol (cleaning) Mixing cups, brush or squeegee, gloves Optional: microballoons or filler if reshaping is needed 🧰 Step 4: Fix the Crack Sand the cracked area down to the fiberglass/wood—remove loose fibers and create a 1–2 inch feathered edge around the crack. Clean with acetone and let it dry. Apply fiberglass patch: Cut 2–3 layers of fiberglass cloth, each one slightly smaller than the last. Mix epoxy resin and apply it over the crack. Lay the fiberglass patches one at a time, saturating each with resin as you go. Squeegee out bubbles. Let cure 24 hours in a dust-free, ventilated area. 🪵 Step 5: Sand and Finish Sand the cured patch smooth (150-grit, then 220). Feather it into the surrounding nose for a clean shape. If you care about looks, paint or varnish it to match the original finish. (Optional but smart) Add a layer of UV-protective clear coat to prevent yellowing. 🛑 Don'ts: Don’t use polyester resin (it destroys EPS foam) Don’t seal it while wet inside Don’t leave the crack unattended—it will rot the foam core over time 👷 If You’d Rather Outsource: A surfboard shop or boat repair shop can do a pro-grade fix for ~$75–$150. Look for someone with epoxy experience—this isn’t your average ding repair. 🎯 Final Tip: Once you’re done, add a rubber nose guard to prevent future damage. The Hypernut’s stubby nose shape makes it a repeat target for cracks on rocks, racks, and rough landings. Want me to mock up a repair checklist PDF for printing or link you to a step-by-step video? You said: Please continue writing. ChatGPT said: Here’s a continuation with bonus tips, a recommended video, and a DIY repair checklist to keep you on track: 🎥 Recommended Video If you’re a visual learner, this video shows the full process for epoxy SUP nose repairs using fiberglass: YouTube Search: “How to repair epoxy SUP nose ding” Look for videos by “The Ding King”, “Fiberglass Hawaii”, or “Greenlight Surf Supply” — all show solid techniques using basic materials. ✅ DIY Epoxy Nose Repair Checklist Before You Begin Inspect for water inside (press gently around the crack) Mark the repair zone with masking tape Store board indoors for 1–2 days to fully dry Supplies 80-grit & 150/220-grit sandpaper Epoxy resin + hardener (like West System, Entropy Resin, or Solarez UV Epoxy) Fiberglass cloth (4–6 oz weight) Acetone or 90%+ isopropyl alcohol Mixing cups & stirring sticks Plastic spreader/squeegee Gloves, tape, razor knife Optional: UV-protective varnish or matching paint for finishing Repair Steps Sand the crack and remove loose fiberglass Feather edges and clean with acetone Cut fiberglass patches to size (layered) Mix epoxy resin and apply base coat Lay fiberglass layers with resin saturation Remove air bubbles with squeegee Let cure for 12–24 hours Sand smooth and shape the nose contour Apply finish (paint, varnish, or UV coat) 🧠 Pro Tips for a Cleaner Job Use masking tape around the patch zone to prevent resin drips. If the nose is heavily deformed, mix in microballoon filler to help reshape the point before glassing. For a slick finish, use wax paper or Mylar to lay over the last resin coat—peel it off after curing for a glassy surface with less sanding. 🛡️ After the Repair Don’t paddle out immediately. Let it cure 100% for at least 48 hours before water contact. Add a nose bumper or rail tape to prevent future cracks—especially if you launch off rocky shores or car-top often. Let me know if you want: A printable checklist PDF Product links for resin/fiberglass kits Instructions to color match or repaint your board nose A repair form template for resale disclosure (if you sell it later) This kind of proactive fix will not only preserve performance, it’ll also protect your board’s resale value, especially since yours is a signed, potentially collectible model. Thanks for the heads-up — here’s the complete continuation, organized cleanly for reference and printing: ✅ DIY SUP NOSE REPAIR CHECKLIST (PRINTABLE) 🔧 Prep & Drying Inspect the crack: depth, width, and whether the foam or wood core is exposed Tilt board nose-down to drain any water Dry thoroughly (48+ hours, preferably with a fan or sunlight) Clean with acetone or isopropyl alcohol 🪚 Sanding & Shaping Sand damaged area with 80-grit sandpaper to expose clean fiberglass/wood Feather out 1–2 inches around crack for strong resin bonding Remove sanding dust with a clean, dry rag 🧰 Materials Setup Fiberglass cloth (cut 2–3 layers, each smaller than the last) Epoxy resin & hardener (marine-grade or surf-specific) Mixing cup & stir stick Small brush or squeegee Painter’s tape Gloves, mask, and a well-ventilated workspace (Optional) Microballoons or filler if the tip needs reshaping 🛠️ Repair Process Mix epoxy resin according to label (usually 2:1 or 5:1 ratio) Wet the area with a light coat of resin Apply fiberglass cloth layers one by one, saturating each with resin Smooth out bubbles with a squeegee or needle Let cure undisturbed for at least 24 hours 🧽 Finishing Sand cured resin smooth with 150 → 220 grit Optional: touch up with matching paint or wood finish Spray UV-stable clear coat (e.g., Krylon UV or marine varnish) (Optional) Install rubber nose guard to prevent future damage 🧃 RECOMMENDED SUPPLIES Tool / Material Recommended Product Epoxy Resin West System 105/205, or Solarez Epoxy Fiberglass Cloth 4oz or 6oz E-glass sheet UV Clear Coat Krylon UV-Resistant Clear Spray Sandpaper 80, 150, and 220 grit Optional Nose Guard SurfCo Nose Guard Kit Filler (for reshaping) West System Microlight or Epoxy Putty 🎥 VIDEO TUTORIALS (YouTube) Full Nose Rebuild – “Repair Cracked Surfboard Nose” – Shaper Studios SUP Ding Repair (Epoxy) – “How to Repair a SUP Ding” – Rooster’s Ride Quick Patch (Minor) – “Solarez Epoxy Fix” – SolarezUSA 🧠 Final Pro Tips Always use epoxy, never polyester resin (it melts EPS foam). Let epoxy cure at least 48–72 hours before using the board again in the water. Flat water test it before taking it into surf conditions. If it still feels soft when pushed after 2 days, let it keep curing longer. Let me know if you want this as a 1-page printable PDF or checklist graphic for your workshop, or if you'd rather hand the board to a local shop (I can help you find one in NE Florida). You said: Uploaded image It's been out of the water and in my living room for six months. The foam was exposed and now dry and crumbly. I chiseled out the loose skin and foam to a trench that is 2" long an 1/4" deep. Here is a picture. ChatGPT said: Thanks for the image and details. Here's a clear path forward: 🔍 DAMAGE DIAGNOSIS From your photo and notes: Area: ~2" long gouge on the nose rail Depth: ~¼" deep, through the fiberglass shell and into the foam Foam: Now dry but crumbly = needs reinforcement or replacement Edges: Cleanly chiseled trench = good prep for repair Construction: Sandwich composite (glass + wood + foam) This is a deep nose impact with minor foam compromise — a textbook candidate for an epoxy+fiberglass repair with foam filler. 🛠️ REPAIR PLAN 🧰 Materials Needed: Item Notes Epoxy resin + hardener Surfboard-grade (West System, Solarez Epoxy, etc.) Fiberglass cloth 4oz or 6oz weight; 2–3 patch layers Q-cell or microballoons For lightweight foam filler Sandpaper 80, 150, and 220 grit Mixing supplies Cup, sticks, gloves, brush or squeegee Masking tape To control resin spread Optional paint or varnish Black or wood finish to match factory look ✅ Step-by-Step Instructions 1. Clean and Sand Sand the edges of the trench with 80-grit to expose fresh fiberglass. Bevel back ~½" to ¾" all around the trench (helps the patch blend and bond). Wipe clean with acetone or isopropyl alcohol. 2. Rebuild the Foam Core Mix epoxy + Q-cell or microballoons to a peanut butter consistency. Fill the trench, shaping it slightly lower than the original rail contour. Let cure fully (typically overnight). Sand the hardened filler smooth and slightly concave to allow for fiberglass layers. 3. Patch with Fiberglass Cut 2–3 pieces of fiberglass cloth, each one smaller than the last, sized to overlap the trench by ~½". Apply a thin coat of epoxy to the area. Lay down the largest patch and saturate with epoxy, then layer on the others. Use a brush or plastic squeegee to smooth and remove bubbles. 4. Sand and Shape Once cured (12–24 hrs), sand the patch smooth, feathering into the original surface. Finish with 150 then 220 grit. 5. Finish Coat (Optional) Add a final coat of clear epoxy for gloss and UV protection. Or color match and paint if you want it to look pristine. Let fully cure before using (ideally 48–72 hrs). 💡 Optional: Apply a nose guard after repair for future protection. If you want to show off the repair (badge of honor), skip painting and just gloss it with epoxy. Want Help With: Product links for microballoons and resin? Color matching tips for the glossy black rail? A printable repair sheet with checklist and curing times? Let me know — you’re on track to do a clean, lasting fix. You said: I have this kit: Phix Doctor Dura Resin Fiber Fiber Fill Mondo Epoxy Poly Safe. Should I use it or toss it? ChatGPT said: That Phix Doctor Dura Resin Fiber Fill Mondo Epoxy kit is actually exactly what you need—with a few caveats: ✅ What’s Good About It: Epoxy-based (safe for EPS foam—checkmark #1) “Fiber Fill” = contains chopped fiberglass for structural strength UV Cure = fast drying in sunlight Poly Safe = won’t melt your board’s foam core Designed for surf/SUP use = matched to board flex and strength If it's not hardened in the tube and still spreads/mixes properly, you can absolutely use it for this repair. For your 2" gouge, it may even be enough on its own without layering fiberglass cloth—as long as you're okay with a slightly lumpier texture. ❗ Where It Falls Short (if you're picky) Short working time: UV resin starts to harden in sunlight very fast; work in shade Cosmetic finish: Can look cloudy or bumpy unless sanded and glossed Harder to sand than standard resin: Due to fiber content Less control over contour: Not great for complex reshaping 👇 Your Best Option with That Kit Since your trench is shallow and already dry: Lightly sand & clean the area Apply the Fiber Fill in layers, shaping as best you can Expose to sunlight to harden each layer Sand and feather the patch after full cure (Optional) Apply a thin top coat of clear UV-cure resin or gloss epoxy for smoothness 🚫 When to Toss It: If it smells off, is hardened, or won’t cure in sun, toss it. If you're doing high-performance surf use, or it’s a deep structural rail hit, you may want to reinforce with real fiberglass + epoxy for insurance. 👊 Bottom Line: Use it—it’s a solid product for this type of repair, especially for rail or nose dings. If it doesn't bond well, you can always sand it out and switch to full fiberglass/epoxy later. Want help shaping it for a clean finish with just that kit? You said: yes ChatGPT said: Great — here’s how to get the cleanest possible finish using just your Phix Doctor Dura Resin Fiber Fill Mondo Epoxy kit, even on a rail nose gouge like yours. 🧼 Step 1: Surface Prep Sand the area gently with 80-grit sandpaper. Feather the edge of the gouge so the resin has a clean bonding surface. Give the shiny rail surrounding the ding a light scuff too. Clean with isopropyl alcohol or acetone — let it dry completely. 🧪 Step 2: Shade Application ⚠️ Apply in shade so UV resin doesn’t start curing mid-application. Knead the tube if the resin has settled or separated. Squeeze a small amount of the fiber fill into the gouge — don’t overdo it. Use a small flat applicator (a stiff plastic card or paddle stick) to spread it flush with the surface. Slightly overfill the gouge, but not so much that it drips. Try to shape the nose’s round contour now to save sanding later. ☀️ Step 3: Cure It in Sunlight Carefully carry the board into direct sunlight. Expose the repair for 5–10 minutes. You’ll know it’s cured when it’s hard to the touch and no longer tacky. 🔁 If the gouge is deep: Do it in two or three thin layers, curing each one in between. 🪚 Step 4: Sanding and Shaping Start with 150-grit sandpaper and carefully shape the patch flush with the rail. Match the round contour of the original nose rail. Avoid sanding into the glossy factory surface unless necessary. Follow up with 220-grit to smooth it out. Optional: Wet sand at 400–600 grit for a polished finish. 💎 Step 5: Finishing Touch You can leave the repair raw if you’re not worried about looks. For a smooth gloss: Apply a thin clear coat of UV epoxy (no fiber) over the sanded patch and cure it. Or use a UV-stable spray clear coat (like Krylon UV-Resistant Clear) to restore shine and protect from yellowing. 🎯 Pro Tip: Edge Blending Tape off a tight border around the patch before applying resin. When you remove the tape after sanding, it helps avoid a rough resin smear that screams “DIY job.” If you want to go a step further and match the black rail paint, I can walk you through color matching too — just ask. Otherwise, this repair will be water-tight, surf-ready, and stronger than it looks. Want a printable step-by-step version or a checklist graphic? No file chosenNo file chosen ChatGPT can make mistakes. Check important info. Pls Continue

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