Source ID: 1547

Keep Guana Wild


Author: Howard, Amy
Primary project: 3
Collection: 195
Published: 2026-02-06
Medium: 1
Full text? 0
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34 Timeline Entries

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Write this and everything from a Christian standpoint that is obviously knowledgeable and respectful of other religions.

Write this for new Ponte Vedra residence, tourists, and guana tour guides. 

Format this similar to Sand County Almanac. Write 12 months worth of nature one month at a time. Add appendices for lists and references.

Teach everything in a comical, storytelling voice like I would on a trail hike. Teaching children. Teaching Christian homeschoolers. Just use that voice for the whole book. 

Write the book here with hyperlinks to the sources for my own backtracking while I'm writing. When I publish it, it won't have any hyperlinks in the published copy.

In the introduction or prologue, confess that I can be and have been my whole life, a gullible person, and have been taught things in good faith and forward that cool information onto other people, only to find out that I was duped. Use the big ant head story that Michael Fleetwood told me as an example. Also, gallardia isn't native. If I am sharing misinformation in this book, I am extremely sorry and well try to find a way to rectify the situation after publication. Please notify me if you find one like that.

End each chapter with a shortlist of the chapter topics. 

Sell it in small paperback so tour guides can keep it in their car, but also in beautiful hardcover so residents can keep it on their bookshelf or coffee table.

Send a flyer to local addresses with a chapter list and a QR code to buy the book.

[photo of Josh running after his kite at Guana Beach.] 

This photo was taken on February 12th 2002. That is my then. Husband chasing our son who is chasing a kite that got away from him in the winter wind at Guana Beach. What were we doing on the beach? I'm such a a freezing cold, windy overcast day? Outdoorsy people can't really answer such nonsensical questions about nonsensical activities. 

Take me, for example. I took that picture from my igloo I had created with a quilt wrapped around me and over my head. I was bundled up in several layers of down jackets and still wrapped in this quilt and still couldn't get out of the ugloo. But I was able to peek out enough to take that picture. Meanwhile, I sat in my igloo and scooped up piles of sand within reach and sifted through them. That's when I found my first shark tooth. 

It was tiny. You would need glasses to see it. But I loved it. It was pristine and shark and babyish. Baby shark shark. I don't think that song existed yet. But I was addicted. Instantly. I sifted and sifted and sifted and kept finding another and another and another. By the time they dragged me in my igloo to the car, I had seven seven tiny sharks teeth. My family was amazed I could even find. 

Not only was I addicted to shark teeth, I was addicted to this other planet we were on. Where in Florida can you go and feel like you are between a mountain and the ocean in not c a building or person for as far as your kite can escape? This is a treasure worth protecting.

That day in 2002, we had made our 1 and 1/2 hour Trek to the coast from Fleming Island, that Mammoth labyrinth of subdivisions consuming all available space between Orange Park and Green cove springs. We had many options with many amenities to go to the beach. But we chose this seemingly forgotten one every time. 

And then the kids became teenagers. They wanted to go to a beach that had people. My guana days fell to the wayside. Somehow, it kept calling me. I crept closer and closer without realizing what was pulling me. I even commuted over to Flagler college to finish my degree.

When the kids were grown I moved to St. Augustine in 2007 and dove into the historical community. I was in love with St. Augustine and wanted to save it from economic demise, which in fact was happening. I had friends and relatives in other states that had never even heard of St. Augustine. I was working with merchants in the historic district who were on the verge of closing up shop for lack of business. Some of them did fold. City leaders and the tourism development council brainstorm hard how to save the oldest cities economy. At that time, we were blessed with the best mayor ever, Nancy shaver. Nancy used to dress up in colonial garden wander around downtown on busy evenings. Once I was in a tiny Pilates class held upstairs in the tow bar house. Nancy was on her mat beside me, chatting excitedly with marketing ideas. I told her it was not the most uplifting experience to tell. Tell visitors how matanzas River got its name. Nancy had a light bulb moment and said we should actually play it up. Bloody matanza's. Maybe at Halloween. Have a pub crawl the same night. Paint the river red like they do the Chicago River green. I think she even said there was such thing as a bloody Mary River somewhere. It sounded hilarious and heinous at first, but over the next few days, I started to envision a memorial version of that. I tried to think of anything red that could safely go in the river and still be seen at night bay from the bayfront. I could not imagine any form of dye. But rose petals came to my mind. I knew that by this time there was an ecosystem authority over at Guana. The GTM research Reserve had opened up to the public in 2003, and finished their current Visitor Center in 2005. I called over there and asked who I might speak to about ecological effects of lake of rose petals floating down the matanzas river in front of the bayfront. I was put in touch with Andrea so and so. Andrea said it sounded like a lovely idea, but she had heard that roses were high on the toxicity list because they are farmed in Mexico with extreme pesticides. Pesticides. The pesticides were so bad that the the farmworkers were experiencing an epidemic of health problems from it. Andrea said if I could find non-toxic rose petals, she would absolutely support the idea. I updated mayor shaver by email, who was all the more excited and told me to keep her posted on what she can do to help make it happen. 

After exhausting all leads on a safe source of rose petals, my mind drifted into kayaks and paddle boards bearing underwater red lights. Next, I needed to figure out how this army of kayaks and paddle boards could put in and get out of the river and ride the tide at night on the right day. Before I could learn all that ecosystem jazz, mayor shaver had a tragic stroke or heart attack. She recovered pretty well, but decided she needed to step down. She has been sorely missed by many of us.

I moved to Ponte Vedra in 2010. A lot has happened to Guana since that frigid day in 2002. But the more immersed. I more get in Guana, the larger the picture gets. There is an enormous, mind-boggling depth and breadth of Life in this shrinking Oasis.

I worked the front desk at the GTM research reserve for a couple of years. I. Hundreds of visitors to the park. Many of them were repeat visitors from out of state. Like me in the early 2000s, they hope, and maybe even take for granted that Guana will still be here next time they can get back. That requires stewardship. Of the thousands of guana fans around the globe, the tiny right around the reserve become stewards of this place. Priceless treasure. Guana is what attracted us to invest our real estate dollars here. Without or guana, we have just another string of seaside neighborhoods along the the eastern coast of the United States. Or worse, a string of shops and hotels like.

The Save St. Augustine passion that consumed me in 2008 has given way to the Save Guana camp. As of this writing, I would say the mayor of save Guana would be the creator of save guana now, Nicole Crosby. I once heard her efforts. Criticized as "very much about her backyard." I thank God that Guana is blessed with a guardian angel with front row seats and personal vested interest.

The Guana Reserve is the headquarters and heart of the GTM Research Reserve. However, the GTM research Reserve spans from Ponte Vedra to Palm Beach and covers two inlets and three rivers. This book is about Guana River and the nature that has been preserved around it. 

It's not clear where the name guana came from. Google maps at a certain zoom level will refer to the dam as guano dam. Older literature also did that. The best I could find for the meaning of the word. Guana was a visitor to GTM told me it is an indigenous word for Palm. He said they used to farm palm trees on that land, which is where the name Palm valley came from. I don't know how the indigenous would name the place after a palm farm came hundreds of years after them. Another visitor to GTM carries the last name of Guana. She says her father immigrated from Mexico and changed his name to Guana from... 

You can't look at a species list from GTM to find the plants of Guana. Because GTM spans all the way to Palm Coast, the plant list includes plants that don't exist at Guana, such as red mangroves. Likewise, it is doubtful you will find residual indigo plants other than where where Grant's plantation planted them on the Guana peninsula. 

Guess and check and check and check 

trying to learn the plants at Guana automatically subscribes you to a community of debaters. You can learn anything faster through the guess and check method. Guess it the species from your eyes. Then look it up with an AI app. Then look it up with another AI app. Then look it up with the first AI app again. Then post it on inaturalist and let all the other guessers guess and debate. Eventually, you'll get some confidence about what it is that you are looking at. And if you'd ever declare what you're looking at, you have to declare it in a tone of personal declaration, not encyclopedic fact.

Here are the main players of the Guana green life. 

Palms 

Pines 

Oaks 

Magnolias 

Berries 

Vines 

Hollies (4) source: GTM Trail Guide

Yaupon holly, Beloved Drink

[Amy, I edited this extensively in Word for the SPVCA article. Unfortunately, that doesn't contain the hyperlinks to the sources, which I really need. I'll have to replace the hyperlinks in the SPVCA copy before deleting this one. The SPVCA copy is below.]

As you walk through the Guana trails, you are surrounded by thousands of Yaupon holly tree-ettes. Several of them greet you on the sidewalk as you enter the trailhead. Most look like twigs working hard to become trunks. A few elders have aged into waify trees with smooth, gray skin. The younger deep evergreen leaves would just cover your thumbprint, graced with a gentle serrated edge. The elders rival a bay leaf.

Some of these tree wannabes are females. They will produce classic holly berries for the entire holiday season, followed by delicate white blossoms in the spring. However, these festive ladies need a male to fertilize them. Luckily, Guana has plenty of both sexes as well as pollinators to play cupid. In fact, the males sprout flowers to attract the pollinators. If you can't dance, you might as well look good.

Despite its modest appearance, this humble shrub is a member of Florida's royal nature family. For one thing, Yaupon holly is the only caffeine source native to North America, with the exception of its weaker cousin, Dahoon holly.

Yaupon's common name derives from the Native American name, ya-pa, Ya (tree) Pa (leaf). The tree was literally named after its leaves. Why? The leaves make tea many called 'beloved drink'. Why? It gives a gentle boost without jitters. Colonial trader James Adair said it 'is friendly to the human system... and perfectly cures a tremor in the nerves'. Modern medical students measure Yaupon's impressive levels of antixidants, flavinoids, and theobromine, that uplifting compound in chocolate. Boil it just so and you even get a froth on top. Yaupon tea was America's original morning coffee and a treat for special guests.

Many of those special guests were European explorers. They looked down into their shell cup and saw an opaque dark liquid, which they called 'black drink.' In certain ceremonial rituals, Native Americans fasted, then binged on Yaupon and publically purged, where it then was called 'white drink' because it brought purification. William Bartram described this purge party to the chief cataloger overseas, who thought the vomiting came from the yaupon as opposed to the binging. He decided Yaupon will henceforth be scientifically identified as Ilex vomitoria (vomiting holly). Bartram's colleague, John Barton, caught the error and promptly proposed a much more accurate name, 'Ilex religiosa', but here we are still having this discussion 300 years later.

The medical establishment confirmed those leaves have no emetic effect in normal use, but the botany establishment has preferred consistency over accuracy for over 300 years now.

With fear of vomiting out of the way, may I recommend the most amazing replacement for your morning coffee jitters? Yaupon Brothers in New Smyrna Beach hopes to replace Florida's dying citrus industry with Yaupon farms. The wildlife can have the berries; we just want the leaves. How does Spiced Peach Yaupon Tea sound? Get it here at Amazon, or browse the tea isle at Whole Foods and see what other blends they carry. Yaupon Brothers also sells gift baskets that make fantastic housewarming gifts.

Please don't pick Yaupon holly from the GTM Reserve. Not only is it illegal to harvest anything on most state conservation land, we don't want to attract covert foragers who will reduce the native flora.

Instead, plant a wispy Yaupon forest in that dry, bald spot in your yard. The birds will sing in the fall for the berries, and butterflies will flutter through the spring flowers. You can even sculpt their growth pattern with some pruning and bonsai tricks.

As for me, I'm trying to get corrosive coffee out of my life. I'm replacing it Yaupon and having fun with garnishes like honey, lemon zest, cinnamon stick, and vanilla. Call it white drink, call it black drink, call it ya-pa or Yaupon. Not many people appreciate the unscientific scientific name, but I bet most of us would concur with 'Beloved'.

Sources:

  1. FPAN
  2. UF-IFAS
  3. Yaupon Brothers
  4. Whole Foods Market
  5. Florida Sportsman
  6. Wikipedia
  7. PubMed
  8. Soprissun
  9. William Bartram Society
  10. Cabeza de Vaca
  11. USDA Plants Database
  12. PubMed, PubMed, PubMed

SPVCA version:

Native Garden Club
By Amy Howard
Yaupon the Beloved

As you walk through the Guana trails, you are surrounded by thousands of Yaupon holly tree-ettes. Most look like twigs, but a few elders have aged into waify trees with smooth, gray skin. The younger deep evergreen leaves would just cover your thumbprint, graced with a gentle serrated edge. The elders rival a bay leaf.

Some of these tree wannabes are females. They will produce classic holly berries throughout the holiday season and beyond, followed by delicate white blossoms in the spring. However, these festive ladies need a male to fertilize them. Luckily, Guana has plenty of both sexes as well as pollinators to play cupid. Yaupon males also sprout flowers to attract the pollinators. If you can't dance, you might as well look good.

Despite its modest appearance, this humble shrub is Florida royalty. Yaupon holly is the only caffeine source native to North America, with the exception of its weaker cousin, Dahoon holly. It appears naturally only in the southeast coastal states, that swath the Spaniards originally named La Florida.

Yaupon's common name derives from the Native American name, ya-pa, Ya (tree) Pa (leaf). The tree was literally named after its leaves. Why? The leaves make tea many called 'beloved drink'. Why? Imagine a caffeine boost without jitters, topped with that uplifting compound in chocolate, theobromine. Boil it just so and you even get a froth on top. Yaupon tea was America's original morning coffee and a treat for special guests.

Many of those special guests were European explorers like Cabeza de Vaca, William Bartram and Jonathan Dickenson. They looked down into their whelk shell cup and saw a dark liquid, which they called 'black drink.' In certain ceremonial rituals, native honorees binged on black drink till they purged, where it then was called 'white drink' because it brought purification.

Europeans also frequently referred to Yaupon as 'cassina', which was technically cousin Dahoon, Ilex cassine. The botanist tasked with assigning Yaupon its own scientific name received many stories of purging, both ceremonial and medicinal. Yaupon's berries will cause a human to vomit without having to binge on strong brew. The taxonomist christened the plant Ilex vomitoria. Bartram's colleague, John Barton, spoke for the entire Yaupon tea-loving world and proposed a correction to 'Ilex religiosa'. https://chronology.amyjohoward.com/pages/source.php?source_id=1608 Unfortunately, we are still having this discussion 300 years later. 

Yes, early medics used Yaupon berries to induce vomiting. But the leaves have always been the treasure. They have been picked, dried and traded halfway across the continent from their southeastern birthplace for at least a thousand years. Modern medical students have been looking at ways to use Yaupon in pharmaceuticals and nutraceuticals because of its diverse health benefits.

Yaupon Brothers in New Smyrna Beach hopes to replace Florida's dying citrus industry with Yaupon farms. They can feed the wildlife while sustaining a healthy tea market. We can easily plant a Yaupon shrub at home. The birds will sing in the fall for the berries, and butterflies will flutter through the spring flowers. You can even sculpt Yaupon’s growth pattern with some pruning and bonsai tricks.

As for me, I'm trying to get corrosive coffee out of my life. I'm replacing it with Yaupon and having fun with flavors. Cabeza de Vaca said the west Florida natives sweetened it with dirt. I prefer garnishes like honey, lemon zest, cinnamon stick, and vanilla. Call it white drink, call it black drink, call it ya-pa or Yaupon. Not many people appreciate the unscientific scientific name, but I bet most of us would concur with 'Beloved'.

Resurrection Fern

Resurrection. What does that mean? In Western societies, many of us celebrate the resurrection of Jesus Christ at Easter. Jesus said, “I am the resurrection and the life” (John 11:25). What does that mean? A reversal of nature? His disciples said he raised Lazarus from the dead, and also the centurion's daughter. Jesus said they were only asleep. They apparently resumed their normal lives, but as oddities. Jesus told the guy next to him on the cross, "Today you will be with me in paradise" (Luke 23:43). That's more palatable. Matthew said other dead people came out of their tombs after Jesus was resurrected. They purportedly went right on into Jerusalem. That's not something you hear often in church, eh?

If any of that is true, maybe the real question is, what does 'dead' mean? 

Resurrection fern offers a nice demonstration. To the casual observer, this fern can die and come back to life indefinitely. But to the true seeker, the truth starts to reveal itself.

Are you a truth seeker? Mark your calendar for the next dry season. As the plants go without rain, most of them will die once they lose about 10% of their water. Resurrection fern watches the sad demise of its friends and hunkers down. It tucks its leaves and curls up, powering down the photosynthesis machine, trading chlorophyll for dust. It can lose 90% of its water in this posture. When you see it this way, please don't pull the plug. Some say you could wait a hundred years. Even then, when the rain finally returns, pull up a chair and watch this marvel of creation earn its lofty name. Those brown crunchy curls will drink in the water and boot up the photosynthesis machine. In a few short hours, it will stand up tall and pour out oxygen through bright green fronds. You see, the life was not in the chlorophyll or the cells. The life is in its unique biological code.

Can that happen for us? Is our life defined only by our blood and cells, or is there some biological code we can't see? It appears we won't know until we go through the drought. At that time, we must power down our respiration machine, trade our blood for dust, and go to sleep. That sure sounds better when resurrection is our game plan.

Of course, scientists are trying to crack resurrection fern's biological code for human purposes. It's convenient that this plant needs no dirt. It gets all its nutrition directly from the air. NASA astronauts took it to outer space to see if it would still resurrect and resume oxygen production even without gravity. Yep! We have a fluffy little friend who travels light and is ready to turn our space station breath back into oxygen. However, it does need something to hang on to.

Ironically, the most likely place to find a resurrection fern is latched onto the most ancient live oak trees, especially the long horizontal branches arching over a path. When your earthly life feels dry and you've lost your happy ending, take a walk on a Guana trail and see what the resurrection fern has to say about it. It will at least. Thank you for your breath.

Happy Resurrection Sunday.

Many more plants

Here is a more comprehensive list I compiled from reported sightings collected into the gbiff database. 

 

Canadian geese You don't see me much in the Guana Reserve. I must say, it's a little bit too wild there for me. I'm pretty sure an alligator can outrun me and those bobcats, I heard there's even some coyotes running around. No thank you. I like living with humans. Up in Ponte Vedra, the neighborhoods are lovely. The grass is lush and delicious. The humans put lovely ponds there for us to swim around. They clean up our poo because we can't do that ourselves. They even stop traffic when we are crossing the street to the even greener grass on the other side. It's a good life.

Spoonville and Wood Stork 

"What happened to your beak?" Wood Stork asked Spoonbill. 

What happened to your face? Asked spoonbill. 

Nothing happened to my face. What do you mean? 

Nothing happened to my beak. I don't even have a beak. What do you mean? 

How can you not have a beak? Aren't you a bird?

Are you a bird? What kind of face is that? You look like a reptile. Or dinosaur. 

No really. Did someone squash your beak? I feel bad for you. 

I have a bill. Isn't it obvious? You don't have to feel bad for me. It works great. Here. Watch. See, swish swish back and forth clap clap chomp chomp nom nom. I don't know how you catch any food with that pointed thing on your face. 

Hmm. That does work well. I can clack like that. Clack clack clack. See? 

Yeah that was good clacking. Can you copy this? 

Clack clack.. clack clack clack. Clack clack clack.. Clackity clack 

I got you. Clack clack.. Clack clack clack.. clackity clack. And a click clack back to you. 

Click clack. Click clack. Click click clack.

Okay, my beak is tired. 

Swish swish. Clack chomp. 

That's impressive, said wood stork. 

Thanks, said spoonbill. So, what happened to your face? 

Nothing. What do you mean? I like my face. 

It's all muddy. Here, let me brush it off for you. 

What are you doing? Leave me alone. This is how my face looks. I like it the way it is.

You like looking like a dinosaur? Don't you want to look like a bird?

I do look like a bird. 

You do look like a bird, until we get close to you. Then we wonder if you're A bird or a reptile. Or a dinosaur. 

I like being a bird. But I like being unique too. I kind of feel like a pterodactyl when I glide over the marsh. 

Yes, I always thought you were a tiny pterodactyl with feathers.

Wildfire on Christmas, now prescribed burns

Guana tour guide reference

Bartram

Grant

Mickler

Usina

Goodwin

Peyton

Crosby

NOAA

Linneus

FWC

When builders build a overhead arch out of stones, they are able to balance all those stones against each other by putting a wedge-shaped stone right in the center of the arch. The rest of the stones lean on the keystone, and it keeps them from falling. If you remove the keystone, the arch falls.

Biologists borrowed this name to label any species that holds up a biological habitat. You can determine which species are keystone by removing it and seeing if the habitat survives without it. To be honest, I'm not sure where or when this test has ever taken place with any species, but I trust the judgment of the scientists who have made the declaration.

Here are some species that have been designated keystone species at the Guana Reserve. Without them, the habitat would die.

  1. Gopher tortoise
    1. source: GTM Guided Hike Trail Guide.
  2. Saw palmetto
    1. source: GTM Guided Hike Trail Guide.
    2.  

 

NOAA data portal 

FDEP

EDD maps 

iNaturalist 

Bill Dally | St. Johns County Beachfront Data Collection Facility

https://surfbreakengineering.com/gtm-nerr_bdcf.html

MS bike tour 

72 mile garage sale

Camino walk

Estuary Fest

 

Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
    Lightening whelk lays eggs in the spring                  
                       
                       
                       
                       

 

Migrating birds

Flowers

Whales

Sea turtles

See Companion slides.

Notes from GTM Guided Hike Trail Guide

Allow latecomers to catch up by doing intro at the trailhead and pointing out numerous things during your first hundred yards or so.

Welcome

  • Thank them for coming
  • Introduce self and volunteers.

Explain logistics

  • 2-hour hike
  • different habitats
  • no bathrooms or water
  • interactive - ask questions
  • not experts - learn from each other
  • stay on trail

GTMNERR

  • Guana
  • Tolomato
  • Matanzas
  • National
  • Estuarine
  • Research
    • living laboratory
    • living classroom
    • effects of warming temps
    • health and benefits of estuary
    • human impacts
  • Reserve
    • 76,000 acres 40 miles PV to PC
    • 12,000 Guana
    • 9,800 WMA
    • 2,300 GTM
    • 14 mgt orgs (FDEP, FWC, Natl Parks...)

What we do

  • Research - living laboratory
  • Education - living classroom for school groups, homeschoolers, summer camps, public outreach NOW
  • Training - officials, land managers, natural resource managers, community planners, and coastal business owners, so they can make informed decisions.
  • Stewardship - preserve for next generations
    • maintain the trails, bridges, crossovers, kiosks
    • prescribed burns

Estuaries

  • buffer
  • filter - One oyster can filter over 50 gallons of water per day
  • nursery
  • Recreation (fishing, boating)
  • Food Source (animals + humans)

How can you protect?

  • Pick up trash
  • Pave less. Hard surfaces increase run-off.
  • Obey wake zones. Heavy waves cause erosion of our shorelines.
  • Fish respectfully - follow catch-and-release practices.
  • Use non-toxic pesticides and herbicides
  • Plant native plants
  • Keep septic tanks working properly
  • Respect our habitats
  • Organize a clean-up
  • Write a story for your local paper
  • Invite a guest speaker to your organization or school

Between Trailhead and Marsh Bridge

  • #1 - Gopher tortoise burrow
    • dry sandy soils
    • about 15’L x 7’D (some 50L x 23D)
    • seeking 72 degrees
    • keystone species - 350+ species use the burrows (i.e. pine snake is suffering)
    • herbivores (i.e. prickly pear)
    • threatened species in Florida
    • illegal to touch or disrupt
  • Maritime hammock
    • Native American term for “shady place”
    • large canopy- pine, oak, bay, palm
    • stabilizes temperature and wind
  • # 2 - Tread softly 
    • hairy stem and leaves sting
    • aka finger rot, bull nettle
    • roots were eaten by Native Americans, tastes like potato.
  • Kiosk
    • colonial periods
    • 1513 Spain (missions, coast guard)
    • 1763 Treaty of Paris to end the Seven Years War, aka the French and Indian War
    • 1763-1783 England - land grants to encourage settlers and plantations
    • 1768? James Grant, the governor of East Florida
      • plantation that covered the Guana Peninsula
      • demonstration farm
      • Indigo and rice
      • slave cabins a bit south of where we are now
      • Indigo cut, fermented, beaten, drained, dried as bricks
      • 70 slaves
    • 1776 American Revolutionary War
    • 1783 Florida ceded back to Spain
    • 1821 US took over
  • # 3 - Red Bay
    • Laurel Wilt Disease
    • fungus carried by ambrosia beetle
    • blocks flow of nutrients
    • damaging avocado farms
  • #4 - Flatwoods plum
    • white flowers in the early spring
    • purple fruit ripens in June (sour)
    • feeds a variety of wildlife
  • # 5 - Hercule’s Club
    • aka Southern prickly ash, toothache tree, tingle tongue
    • Native Americans and early settlers used
    • leaves, bark, twigs numbs the gums, lips and tongue
    • sometimes confused with the Devil’s Walking Stick
    • Hercule’s club has little mounds under thorns
  • #6 - Live Oak
    • dominant tree in NE Florida forests
    • ship-building, curved limbs for the hull
    • acorns are high in fat; a good food source for animals.
  • Spanish Moss
    • neither Spanish nor a moss
    • epiphyte, not parasite
    • gets nutrients from the air and debris
    • scales catch water and nutrients
    • Native Americans used it
      • cloth, bedding, blankets
      • rope
      • temper pottery
    • many insects
  • #6a - Southern Magnolia
    • native North American evergreen tree
    • wowed the Europeans
  • #6b - American Holly
    • dioecious plants have separate sexes
    • one of four different hollies we will see on the hike
  • #7 - Saw Palmetto and Sabal Palm, aka Cabbage Palm (Sabal palmetto)
    • Saw - keystone species
      • over 100 animal species use it for nesting, foraging or cover
      • Spaniards planted them on berms as fortification
      • can be over 700 years old
      • Natives used it for baskets and roofing
      • flowers make a great honey
    • Cabbage/Sabal palm
      • Florida state tree!
      • heart tastes like cabbage
    • Palms like grasses, not trees (don’t have rings.)
      • first grows its width, then height
      • Point out stages of Sabal palm growth during the hike.
  • # 8 - Sweet Gum
    • star-shaped leaves
    • spikey seed pods
    • need fresh water
    • sap makes soaps and gum, natives made a drink
    • Infertile seeds have shikimic acid, one of the main components in Tamiflu

Marsh Bridge

  • freshwater marsh
  • swale between two ancient dune ridges where rainfall collects
  • marsh v swamp
  • #9 - Spartina bakeri, aka sand cordgrass
    • common grasses in marshland is Spartina; bakeri is a freshwater version.
    • This marsh full of lizards, snakes, fish, frogs
      • Great white egrets eat here
      • pig frogs sound like a pig grunting
  • Grass distinctions
    • sedges have edges
    • rushes are round
    • grasses have knees (nodes)
  • #10 - Star rush
    • actually a sedge, not a rush
  • #11 - Soft rush
    • habitat and food for many different animals
  • #12 - Dog fennel
    • Ranchers eradicate it because it causes dehydration in cattle
    • thought to repel fleas and ticks, used in dog kennels

Intersection of the yellow and orange (marker 8)

  • #13 Slash pine
    • needles group 2 or 3
    • slash marks to extract pitch for naval
      • turpentine
      • tar
      • rosin
      • now synthetic alternatives
  • Signage was an Eagle Scout project
  • #14 - Shiny blueberry
    • tiny leaves
    • white and pink flowers late winter
    • blueberries in spring
    • food sources for wildlife
    • edible for humans
  • contrast marsh habitat and pinewoods flats

Between Intersection with Orange Trail to Bench at Red/Purple Trail

  • Prescribed burn
    • charred trees in the marsh east side
    • rx burn in 2016
    • done every few years
    • mimics natural fires
  • #15 - Three native plants of interest, side x side:
    • Bayberry/Wax Myrtle
      • blue waxy berries were used in making soaps and candles
      • berries are a high energy source for animals, particularly migrating birds.
    • Gall Berry/Ink Berry
      • holly
      • in flatwoods forests
      • sprouts abundantly after fire
      • seeds provide food for many animals
    • Lyonia lucida / Fetterbush
      • twisty branches that restricts or “fetters” movement of humans or animals through these plants
      • beautiful small bell-shaped white or pink flowers
      • distinct vein encircles each leaf
      • Seminoles used the wood to make bowls and pipes.  
    • #16 - Rusty lyonia  / Rusty Staggerbush
      • underside of the leaves covered with fine hairs
      • coppery/rusty look
      • white, bell-shaped, flowers are a good nectar source
      • deer browse on the leaves
      • twisted trunks and branches were used for making canes

Transitioning to upland forest portion of the maritime hammock

  • Lichens
    • a fungus living with an alga
    • Fungus cannot photosynthesize
    • algae have no protection from UV light
    • fungus provides protection; algae provides nourishment.
  • #17 - Christmas lichen
    • shaped like a Christmas wreath
  • #18 - Old Man’s Beard
    • antifungal and antibiotic
    • used to compress battle wounds during the Civil War
    • does not grow well in polluted air; indicator of air quality
  • Open area on the left
    • flooded some time ago, killing trees
    • created light gaps
    • enables growth of herbaceous plants and young trees
    • downed trees add wildlife habitat and organic material into the forest ecosystem

At the Bench where the Red/Purple trail intersects the Yellow Trail

  • Florida geological history
    • coastline shifted significantly
    • baserock (largely limestone from marine invertebrates)
    • last ice age (20,000-12,000 YA), Florida 3x current size
    • 5 million years ago, Florida was much smaller
      • The southern third was under water
      • Scientists estimate sea level rise of 2-2.5 feet during the next 100 years
      • will again leave that southern section of FL underwater.
  • Native American history
    • People living in Florida for at least 12,000 years.
    • Mastodons, giant sloths and other megafauna roamed through Florida
    • People congregated around springs
    • No evidence of humans on the Guana Peninsula during this time period.
    • 5,000 YA Indications of humans visiting the Guana Peninsula
      • Orange (orange color) ceramics, dating to 4,500-3,000 YA
      • Shell middens
    • 2,000-1,000 YA
      • materials came from outside Florida
      • extensive trading networks
      • The Sanchez Mound
        • halfway down the peninsula
        • excavated by Andrew Douglass in 1878
        • pottery, celts, human remains
        • housed in the American Museum of Natural History in NYC
    • 1000AD-1767AD - Timucuans
      • chiefdoms throughout Florida
      • large communities
      • farmed, fished, collected shellfish
      • last Timucuan died in Cuba in 1767
  • Spanish Mission
    • Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe de Tolomato
    • established in the 1620s on the Guana Peninsula
    • just south of the Sanchez Mound
    • 25 families lived there by 1689
  • #19 - Pignut hickory
    • nuts important to wildlife
    • bitter taste
    • early Floridians thought only suitable for pigs
    • hickory wood is strong, used for ax handles and wagon wheels
    • Blue trail back goes through a hickory forest

From Bench to Shell Bluff

  • Rise in the terrain, transition from marsh to maritime hammock
  • Resurrection fern
  • #20 - poison ivy vine
    • growing on a tall, straight live oak
    • oil (urushiol) causes skin irritation in many people
    • many birds and animals eat its leaves and berries with no ill effect
  • Sapsucker holes
    • yellow-bellied sapsucker (a woodpecker.)
    • provide sap for the woodpeckers
    • the sap attracts insects, which become protein for the sapsucker
    • true snowbirds, in Florida only during the winter months.
  • #21 - Switch cane
    • only FL native bamboo
    • two others native to the US
    • a large grass
    • flowers once in its lifetime and then dies
    • used for erosion control and river bank restorations
  • open area with dead trees
    • inundated with salt water in 2016 hurricane
    • die-off opened it to sunlight
    • allowed grasses and seedlings to grow
    • common spot for pileated woodpeckers
  • #22 - Yaupon holly
    • berries important for wildlife
    • Natives made black tea with the leaves
    • ceremonial drink
    • the only native North American plant that contains caffeine
  • Cedars
    • thrive in soil with calcium or limestone
  • huge muscadine vines
    • fruit in late summer
    • grown commercially as well

Shell Bluff

  • Tolomato River
    • aka Intracoastal Waterway
    • dug out during WWII
    • original shoreline was much further west
  • erosion
    • boats and storms
  • Minorcan well
    • Juan Andreu 1800s
      • built his home - now under the river
      • built the well 30-50 feet inland, now on the bank
  • Minorcans
    • 1,403 indentured servants
    • Minorca, Greece and Italy
    • signed on to work Turnbull plantation in New Smyrna in 1768
    • Turnbull unprepared and poor management
    • 800 died
    • 1777, 600 Minorcans petitioned the governor of East Florida to release them from their servitude
    • Grant agreed
    • Minorcans walked 60 miles to St. Augustine
    • Now a thriving part of the county
  • shell middens
    • Archaic period, 5000 years ago
    • trash heaps
    • pottery, tools and other artifacts
    • Archaeologists regularly survey this site.
  • tidal creek
    • feeds another saltwater marsh
    • wading birds and fiddler crabs live here
    • Ospreys fishing along this stretch
  • GTM biologists may be running experiments at this site
    • 2019 WETFEET
      • Warming Ecosystem Temperatures in a Florida Ecotone Experiencing Transition
      • effect of warming temperatures on estuaries
    • UF video monitoring of boat wakes
      • impact on the shorelines from boats
      • No longer active.
  • Bare banks across the Tolomato
    • oyster shells washed by boat wakes
    • oyster rakes
  • #23 indigo plant
    • likely a remnant from the Grant Plantation
    • Probably native to China
    • cultivated since at least 4000 BC.
  • SURVEYS
    • distribute one per family
    • picnic tables make handy writing surface

Heading Back

  • two options
    • yellow trail
    • blue to orange to yellow

Blue Trail

  • Pignut hickory forest
  • Bench
    • view of a Saltmarsh
    • black needle rush
      • prefers lower salinity, see it closer to the land
    • Spartina alterniflora, or smooth cordgrass
      • dominant in salt marshes
      • withstands high salinity, see it further out, closer to the Tolomato
    • These two plants are used in marsh restoration
      • native
      • transplant well
      • encourage sediments

Orange Trail - right turn

  • Saw palmetto trunks
  • #24 - Bartram’s air plant
    • on a grapevine right side of the trail
    • epiphyte not parasite
    • named after William Bartram
      • America’s First Botanist
      • explored the Southeast from 1773-1777
      • documented the region’s flora, fauna and Native Americans. 
  • #25 - sparkleberry
    • on the north side
    • aka farkleberry or huckleberry
    • remarkable when flowering in Spring
    • small, drooping, bell-shaped white flowers in dense masses.
    • Birds love its black berries.
  • Water snake
    • Pause at the bridge, you may see one

Yellow Trail - left turn

  • leads back to the trailhead

Closing

  • Thank them
  • Encourage them to check out
    • educational center
    • other Saturday programs
    • website for other activities
  • Leave attendance at the front desk.

Leaf shapes 

Plants to teach on the sensory trail

  • Southern live oak
  • Sand live oak
  • Burl. Causes, soon on the right you'll be able to see the river through the trees.
  • Sabal Palm 
  • Yaupon, Holly 
  • Southern magnolia 
  • Christmas lichen 
  • Wax myrtle 
  • Red Bay 
  • Bayberry
  • Northern bayberry
  • Saw palmetto
  • Greenbrier 
  • Yellow-Bellied sapsucker
  • Red-Bellied woodpecker 
  • Carolina Wren 
  • Northern Cardinal
  • Gopher tortoise 
  • Armadillo 
  • Old man's beard 
  • Ambrosia beetle
  • Red cedar
  • Plants that require pollination, dual sex
  • American Holly
  • Pignut hickory
  • Resurrection Fern
  • Muscadine grape, Dangles tentacles at the end of the trail
  • Golden orb weaver
  • Orchid 
  • Spanish moss
  • Brown anole
  • Deer tongue grass might be Bermuda grass
  • Squirrel nest
  • Crossvine
  • Tall flatsedge
  • Pincushion Moss
  • Ponyfoot
  • Dwarf, palmetto
  • Osprey
  • Sarsaparilla vine
  • Monitoring tubes
  • Crust
  • Pill bug
  • Lyreleaf sage
  • Yellow woodsorrel
  • Whose roots are hanging trying to reach the ground? Muscadine 
  • Solid yellow butterfly
  • Bermuda grass
  • Coast sandbur
  • Southern sandbur all over Marge's apron
  • Not a single pine tree?!

 Activities

  • Make and take a sip every time we pass a yaupon Holly tree. 
  • Make a checklist and tally how many you find of each thing. Encourage guests to guess ahead if they think they spot a match that's on there checklist before we see it. Just by the name. 
  • Tell the story of the yellow-bellied sap sucker before we get to that tree. Till it in first person. Like you are the bird.
  • Find out what settles an upset stomach after drinking too much black drink. Saw palmetto? Pretend to harvest and process the berries after we drink too much black drink. When we see the the saw palmetto Bush.
  • Breathe Deep oxygen when we see lichens
  • Grade each participant on their checklist for identification. Give a a green trail Master naturalist certificate to anyone with 100% correct.
  • Do the trail in advance to create a checklist of things I know we will see. Make that The benchmark for what someone who wants to get 100% must find. Invite anyone who still wants to try for 100% to make multiple rounds after the hike until they get there certificate.
  • Chew gum every time you see a sweet gumball
  • Blue trail to WMA past Big Savannah pond. Call it a bird resort. Mama alligator lives here with her kids. Dad lives in the ditch across the trail. He visits sometimes. When Mom thinks the kids are eating her out of house and home, she kicks him out. They go wandering around looking for somewhere else, some other territory to claim and grow up. Sometimes they wander out into the iguana lake and Guana River. They don't stay long because they find out it's too salty over there. If they have good instincts, they will swim North in the lake. After the 5 Mile Mark, the salt dissipates and it becomes a resort for alligators for the top half of the lake.
  • Add a an artifact identifier chart to the trail guide.

Trail etiquette

  • Wildlife voices so we don't scare away wildlife 
  • No music 
  • At GTM, Bicycles should walk around pedestrians, not vice versa. Bicycles can have the right-of-way in the WMA.

Homework I need to do 

  • What is that mound?
  • Learn how to identify a pig nut hickory tree after finding the nuts. Find indigenous uses for the nuts.
  • Nature journaling E-zine
  • GTM Seining
  • GTM Guided beach hike

please work

Seasonal Sightings
JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC
hunting                      
Whales                      
Flowers                      
Storms                      
                       
                       
                       
                       
                       

 

Coachwhip

I don't love snakes, but I love coachwhip snakes. I wonder if Coach purses are named after the coachwhip. The ones I've seen are pearly herringbone taupe with shiny black heads, just like a coach purse.

Twice while gardening at SPVCA, I've turned around and found a coachwhip watching me work. Once, he was lying in the sun right on top of the muhly grass. I only saw him twice. He was so very beautiful that I revisited the spot on many occasions hoping to see him again. Another coachwhip lived out its feeble old age in the GTM visitor center. His name was Fivel, and he was more of a chocolate color. Fivel ducked back into his hole every time I tried to admire his beauty. I thought anyone would agree, until a guy saw one at the beach access and gasped, "EWWGH! What IS that?!"

Hm. Why do I think they are gorgeous? I felt redeemed when I stumbled across William Bartram's story of stumbling across a coach-whip. No one can tell it better, so I'll copy and paste it here for you:

Next we joyfully enter the borders of the level Pine forest and savannas, which continued for many miles, never out of sight of little lakes or ponds, environed with illumined meadows, the clear waters sparking through the tall Pines. HAVING a good spirited horse under me, I generally kept a-head of my companions, which I often chose to do, as circumstances offered or invited, for the sake of retirement and observation. THE high road being here open and spacious, at a good distance before me, I observed a large hawk on the ground, in the middle of the road; he seemed to be in distress, endeavouring to rise, when, coming up near him, I found him closely bound up by a very long coach-whip snake, that had wreathed himself several times round the hawk's body, who had but one of his wings at liberty; beholding their struggles a while, I alighted off my horse with an intention of parting them; when, on coming up, they mutually agreed to seperate themselves, each one seaking his own safety, probably Page 219 considering me as their common enemy. The bird rose aloft and fled away as soon as he recovered his liberty, and the snake as eagerly made off, I soon overtook him but could not perceive that he was wounded. I SUPPOSE the hawk had been the aggressor, and fell upon the snake with an intention of making a prey of him, and that the snake dexterously and luckily threw himself in coils round his body, and girded him so close as to save himself from destruction. THE coach-whip snake is a beautiful creature; when full grown they are six and seven feet in length, and the largest part of their body not so thick as a cane or common walking stick; their head not larger than the end of a man's singer; their neck is very slender, and from the abdomen tapers away in the manner of a small switch or coach-whip; the top of the head and neck, for three or four inches, is as black and shining as a raven; the throat and belly as white as snow; and the upper side of their body of a chocolate colour, excepting the tail part, almost from the abdomen to the extremity, which is black: it may be proper to observe, however, that they vary in respect to the colour of the body; some I have seen almost white or cream colour, others of a pale chocolate or clay colour, but in all the head and neck is black, and the tail dark brown or black. They are extremely swift, seeming almost to fly over the surface of the ground, and that which is very singular, they can run swiftly on only their tail part, carrying their head and body upright: one very fine one accompanied me along the road side, at a little distance, raising himself erect, now and then looking Page 220 me in the face, although I proceeded on a good round trot on purpose to observe how fast they could proceed in that position. His object seemed mere curiosity or observation; with respect to venom they are as innocent as a worm, and seem to be familiar with man. They seem a particular inhabitant of East Florida, though I have seen some of them in the maritime parts of Carolina and Georgia, but in these regions they are neither so large or beautiful.

  1. Save Guana now 
  2. GTM friends 
  3. Inner city kid education programs 
  4. Catch and release 
  5. Audubon society 
  6. Turtle patrol

Homes on North Guana Lake

On 2/18/2026, the homes on Neck Road, Gnarled Oaks Drive, and Broken Pottery Drive ranged from $1M to $2M on Zillow sales log. The homes on A1A ranged from $4M to $12M.

Surfer in North Guana Lake

To remember my way around the marsh channels at North Guana Outpost, I envision the water as a stick figure. It is a surfer with a long dreadlock coming off his head. His body and left leg match and distantly wrap the two subdivisions on the east top of the lake: Gnarled Oaks Drive and Broken Pottery Drive.

Surfer's head

The back of his head starts at the NGO kayak launch. His long nose faces the . His dreadlock bends toward A1A and dips under the road at Mickler Weir.

Surfer's neck

The surfer's neck bends slightly toward the ocean at the first house we see in the Neck Road subdivision.

Surfer's legs

Sensitive to fluctuations and therefore good indicators of habitat changes. 

Cross References